Posts on Picturing Jordan https://picturingjordan.com/posts/ Recent content in Posts on Picturing Jordan Hugo -- gohugo.io en-us Except where otherwise noted, content on this site is licensed under a <a rel='license' href='https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/'>Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International license</a>. Sun, 19 Aug 2018 17:58:43 +0300 Buying Bedouin Fabric in Amman https://picturingjordan.com/2018/08/buying-bedouin-fabric-amman/ Sun, 19 Aug 2018 17:58:43 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2018/08/buying-bedouin-fabric-amman/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2018/08/IMG_20180407_124628.jpg" alt="Several reams of colorful fabric stacked vertically in a shop in downtown Amman."/> <figcaption> <h4>Reams of colorful Bedouin fabric on sale in downtown Amman</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>Anyone who has drank tea in Petra or ate <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mansaf">mansaf</a> in Wadi Rum will quickly recognize the unique fabric adorning traditional Bedouin tents in Jordan. These colorful designs are commonly used across the Arabian Peninsula and beyond, from Syria and Iraq in the north to the United Arab Emirates and Oman in the southeast. American musician Cardi B even featured some in the 2017 music video for her song <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEGccV-NOm8">Bodak Yellow</a>!</p> Saint Thaddeus Church at Sunset https://picturingjordan.com/2018/07/saint-thaddeus-church-sunset/ Tue, 17 Jul 2018 13:16:43 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2018/07/saint-thaddeus-church-sunset/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2018/07/IMG_20180707_185402.jpg" alt="Church in typical Armenian style with pointy blue roof and the city behind it."/> <figcaption> <h4>Iconic Armenian Church in Jabal Ashrafieh at Sunset</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I&rsquo;m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p> Greco–Roman Ruins of Pella https://picturingjordan.com/2018/02/greco-roman-ruins-pella/ Wed, 28 Feb 2018 13:43:29 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2018/02/greco-roman-ruins-pella/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2018/02/DSC_0005.JPG" alt="Remains of the classical basilica of Pella"/> <figcaption> <h4>Remains of the classical basilica of Pella</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>These days there isn&rsquo;t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p> Cleanliness Comes From Faith https://picturingjordan.com/2017/07/cleanliness-comes-from-faith/ Tue, 25 Jul 2017 16:15:22 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2017/07/cleanliness-comes-from-faith/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/07/IMG_20161120_143235.jpg" alt="Graffiti with Arabic inscription depicting someone putting trash in a trash can"/> <figcaption> <h4>Graffiti in downtown Amman appeals to the faithful</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn&rsquo;t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <em>finesse</em> — as here in Jordan.</p> Emperor Hadrian's Arch in Jerash https://picturingjordan.com/2017/06/emperor-hadrians-arch-jerash/ Tue, 13 Jun 2017 15:24:57 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2017/06/emperor-hadrians-arch-jerash/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/06/IMG_20170606_101711.jpg" alt="The Arch of Hadrian welcomes you to Jerash"/> <figcaption> <h4>The Arch of Hadrian welcomes you to Jerash</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it&rsquo;s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p> Greco–Roman Ruins in Jerash https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/ Wed, 05 Apr 2017 08:50:44 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/DSC_0143.jpg" alt="Row of columns at the Oval Forum in Jerash"/> <figcaption> <h4>Row of columns at the Oval Forum in Jerash</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>Jordan&rsquo;s location in the geographical &ldquo;near east&rdquo; has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Roman, Nabataean, Byzantine, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p> Lose Yourself in Wadi Rum https://picturingjordan.com/2017/03/lose-yourself-wadi-rum/ Mon, 27 Mar 2017 10:30:42 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2017/03/lose-yourself-wadi-rum/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/02/DSC_0141.JPG" alt="Bedouin with camels in Wadi Rum"/> <figcaption> <h4>Bedouin with camels in Wadi Rum</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>You could easily lose yourself — both literally and figuratively — in the endless red sand and towering rock skyscrapers of Wadi Rum. This majestic place, known to even the Greeks and the Romans, has been inhabited for thousands of years and is unlike any other place on Earth. The unique landscape has been featured in a handful of Hollywood movies, for example <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lawrence_of_Arabia_(film)"><em>Lawrence of Arabia</em></a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>.</p> Sleep in a Chalet at the Dead Sea https://picturingjordan.com/2017/02/sleep-chalet-dead-sea/ Wed, 15 Feb 2017 18:31:28 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2017/02/sleep-chalet-dead-sea/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/02/DSC_0052.JPG" alt="Enjoy the view from the comfort of your hammock"/> <figcaption> <h4>Enjoy the view from the comfort of your hammock</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>Jordan&rsquo;s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you&rsquo;re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan&rsquo;s</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p> The Dome of the Rock https://picturingjordan.com/2017/01/dome-of-the-rock/ Mon, 23 Jan 2017 08:53:53 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2017/01/dome-of-the-rock/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/01/IMG_20170117_083551.jpg" alt="Golden dome, vibrant tiles, and elegant Arabic calligraphy"/> <figcaption> <h4>Golden dome, vibrant tiles, and elegant Arabic calligraphy</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem&rsquo;s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone&rsquo;s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p> The Grandeur of Petra https://picturingjordan.com/2016/12/grandeur-petra/ Sat, 24 Dec 2016 20:13:21 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/12/grandeur-petra/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/12/DSC_0029.JPG" alt="Petra&#39;s &#34;monastery&#34; basking in the golden light just before sunset"/> <figcaption> <h4>Petra&#39;s &#34;monastery&#34; basking in the golden light just before sunset</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nabataeans">Nabataeans</a> were a tribe who became filthy rich on the trade of frankincense, myrrh, and spices in the Arabian peninsula around 2,000 years ago. They built Petra as the capital of their flourishing civilization. Hauntingly beautiful stone facades standing one hundred meters tall are amazingly intact and well preserved to this day.</p> Kanafeh: the Classy Palestinian Dessert https://picturingjordan.com/2016/12/kanafeh-classy-palestinian-dessert/ Fri, 09 Dec 2016 17:22:59 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/12/kanafeh-classy-palestinian-dessert/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/12/IMG_20161127_212229.jpg" alt="A small portion of kanafeh at a restaurant in Amman"/> <figcaption> <h4>A small portion of kanafeh at a restaurant in Amman</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>I&rsquo;m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for &ldquo;high cuisine,&rdquo; <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can&rsquo;t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it&rsquo;s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you&rsquo;re doing!</p> Red, Orange, and Yellow Rice at Bab al-Yemen https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/red-orange-yellow-rice-bab-al-yemen/ Sun, 27 Nov 2016 12:59:44 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/red-orange-yellow-rice-bab-al-yemen/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/IMG_20161110_220626.jpg" alt="All the multi-colored rice you can eat"/> <figcaption> <h4>All the multi-colored rice you can eat</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>You haven&rsquo;t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p> Harvesting Olives in Ajloun https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/harvesting-olives-ajloun/ Fri, 18 Nov 2016 18:39:58 +0200 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/harvesting-olives-ajloun/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/IMG_20161118_130025.jpg" alt="Freshly picked olives"/> <figcaption> <h4>Freshly picked olives</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p><a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has an ingenious day trip where you pay <em>them</em> to take <em>you</em> to pick olives on a farm in Ajloun — the family who owns the farm even comes out to watch you and give you tips! Like I said: genius. Jokes aside, it was actually a lot of fun, and the point is to educate you about the olive harvest and its importance to people in the region.</p> Contemporary Arab Design at the Jordan River Foundation Showroom https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/contemporary-arab-design-jrf-showroom/ Mon, 07 Nov 2016 15:28:23 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/contemporary-arab-design-jrf-showroom/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/11/IMG_20161104_130900.jpg" alt="Simple, rustic design fuses traditional objects with new styles"/> <figcaption> <h4>Simple, rustic design fuses traditional objects with new styles</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>The <a href="http://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It&rsquo;s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma&rsquo;s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p> Sheikh Zayed Mosque: the Pearl of Aqaba https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/sheikh-zayed-mosque-pearl-aqaba/ Tue, 11 Oct 2016 12:06:06 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/sheikh-zayed-mosque-pearl-aqaba/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/DSC_0024.JPG" alt="Beautiful mosque by the sea, surrounded by palm trees"/> <figcaption> <h4>Beautiful mosque by the sea, surrounded by palm trees</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be &ldquo;the pearl of Aqaba.&rdquo; There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn&rsquo;t much to write home about</a>.</p> Aqaba is Dirty and Disappointing https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/ Wed, 05 Oct 2016 10:46:23 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/IMG_20161002_131313.jpg" alt="A picturesque view where you can&#39;t see the trash on the beach"/> <figcaption> <h4>A picturesque view where you can&#39;t see the trash on the beach</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>I&rsquo;m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan&rsquo;s coastal city Aqaba. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p> King Hussein Mosque at Night https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/king-hussein-mosque-night/ Thu, 29 Sep 2016 11:54:07 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/king-hussein-mosque-night/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/DSC_0010.jpg" alt="Amman&#39;s King Hussein mosque at night"/> <figcaption> <h4>Amman&#39;s King Hussein mosque at night</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven&rsquo;t visited it yet, but I&rsquo;ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p> Another Beautiful Hand-Painted Wood Ceiling https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/another-beautiful-hand-painted-ceiling/ Mon, 26 Sep 2016 14:28:23 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/another-beautiful-hand-painted-ceiling/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/DSC_0008.jpg" alt="A hand-painted floral pattern on wooden panels on the ceiling"/> <figcaption> <h4>A colorful floral pattern pops out of the ceiling</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>Another day, another exquisite, hand-painted ceiling in Amman. Just like the <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/beautiful-hand-painted-woodwork/">other hand-painted wood ceiling</a> I posted about two weeks ago, the work was done by an old Syrian man. This one is actually in my flat, and I may or may not have taken this picture while laying on my back on the living room floor.</p> Azraq Wetland, a Disappearing Oasis https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/azraq-wetland-disappearing-oasis/ Sat, 24 Sep 2016 21:28:31 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/azraq-wetland-disappearing-oasis/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/IMG_20160924_101454.jpg" alt="Small lake with bridge and vegetation in the Jordanian desert."/> <figcaption> <h4>A one of a kind oasis is at risk of disappearing soon.</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>There&rsquo;s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman — in thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p> Buying Baklava in Amman https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/buying-baklava-amman/ Fri, 23 Sep 2016 11:15:16 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/buying-baklava-amman/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/IMG_20160810_160953.jpg" alt="Young child smiling and wrapping up baklava in a shop in Amman"/> <figcaption> <h4>Everybody likes baklava!</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>There&rsquo;s a shop in one of Amman&rsquo;s downtown markets that sells traditional sweets. I&rsquo;m not sure who was more excited about this half kilo of <em>baklawa</em> — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p> Saint Thaddeus Church in Amman https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/ Tue, 20 Sep 2016 14:58:34 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/IMG_20160919_141959.jpg" alt="Armenian church with pointy steeple"/> <figcaption> <h4>Easily one of the most unique buildings in Amman</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn&rsquo;t</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafieh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself &ldquo;<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>&rdquo; I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p> Camping in the Dana Biosphere Reserve https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/camping-dana-biosphere-reserve/ Mon, 19 Sep 2016 09:48:23 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/camping-dana-biosphere-reserve/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/DSC_0031.JPG" alt="Just after sunrise at a camp in the Dana Biosphere"/> <figcaption> <h4>Just after sunrise at a camp in the Dana Biosphere</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan&rsquo;s Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan&rsquo;s natural spaces.</p> Beautiful Hand-Painted Woodwork https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/beautiful-hand-painted-woodwork/ Sat, 17 Sep 2016 15:48:23 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/beautiful-hand-painted-woodwork/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/IMG_20160916_174409.jpg" alt="Beautiful hand-painted wood panels on the ceiling"/> <figcaption> <h4>Beautiful hand-painted wood panels on the ceiling</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>There&rsquo;s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I&rsquo;m not sure if it&rsquo;s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p> Don't WhatsApp and Drive https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/dont-whatsapp-and-drive/ Thu, 15 Sep 2016 14:10:48 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/dont-whatsapp-and-drive/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/IMG_20160810_162505.jpg" alt="Billboard in Amman cautions against using your phone while driving"/> <figcaption> <h4>Billboard in Amman cautions against using your phone while driving</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>I can&rsquo;t even read Arabic but I&rsquo;m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It&rsquo;s like an epidemic here. I&rsquo;ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p> Eid Mubarak in Your Neighborhood Dumpster https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/eid-mubarak-neighborhood-dumpster/ Wed, 14 Sep 2016 09:36:00 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/eid-mubarak-neighborhood-dumpster/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/sheep-dumpster-eid-al-adha.jpg" alt="Sheep carcass lazily discarded in neighborhood dumpster"/> <figcaption> <h4>Sheep carcass lazily discarded in neighborhood dumpster</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>As Muslims around the world are busy wishing each other a blessed <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eid_al-Adha">Eid al-Adha</a>, some poor bastard has to clean up this lazily discarded sheep carcass from my local dumpster (note the entrails spilled below). Keep it classy, Jordan.</p> No Noise Near the Noisy Mosque https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/no-noise-near-noisy-mosque/ Wed, 07 Sep 2016 19:32:36 +0300 https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/no-noise-near-noisy-mosque/ <figure> <img src="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/no-noise-near-mosque.jpg" alt="Sign forbidding sound near mosque on Rainbow Street, Amman"/> <figcaption> <h4>Sign forbidding sound near mosque on Rainbow Street, Amman</h4> </figcaption> </figure> <p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn&rsquo;t worried about my personal safety I&rsquo;d put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>