There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
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Learn more about the wetlands on a trip with Wild Jordan or Experience Jordan, and turn off the water in your shower or sink when you don't need it!
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There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
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Learn more about the wetlands on a trip with Wild Jordan or Experience Jordan, and turn off the water in your shower or sink when you don’t need it!
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
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There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
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There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
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A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
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I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
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I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
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The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
Technical: Nikon D3100, ten-second exposure time, post processed from RAW with darktable.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
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The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
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Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
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I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
If that sounds too good to be true, it is! Sadly, I found Aqaba to be dirty — used diapers on the beach, locals arrogantly throwing trash on the street, trash floating around the reef, etc — and full of obnoxious, poorly behaved tourists.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
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The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
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The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
I commend the Queen Rania Foundation for another seriously impressive initiative. Keep up the good work!
Update: the Jordan River Foundation showroom is now called Jordan River Designs and has moved to Mawloud Mukhalles St. near Fifth Circle.
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
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You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
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Another good place to buy kanafeh is at a sweets shop called Nafeesah. Both it and Habibah have several shops around the city, but I'm still not sure which one is better.
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I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
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Another good place to buy kanafeh is at a sweets shop called Nafeesah. Both it and Habibah have several shops around the city, but I’m still not sure which one is better.
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
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While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
The shrine, built nearly 1,300 years ago, stands atop a hotly contested complex called the Temple Mount (“Noble Sanctuary” in Arabic) that dates back to the Canaanites four thousand years ago — like I said, an impressive resume!
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As a secular person it's all a bit too heavy for my taste, but there's no doubt that the complex is stunningly beautiful. Visitation of the Temple Mount is open to the non-Muslim public from 7:30 to 11:00 AM from the access bridge at the Western Wall in the Jewish Quarter of the old city.
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As a secular person it’s all a bit too heavy for my taste, but there’s no doubt that the complex is stunningly beautiful. Visitation of the Temple Mount is open to the non-Muslim public from 7:30 to 11:00 AM from the access bridge at the Western Wall in the Jewish Quarter of the old city.
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
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Wild Jordan staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other reserves are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
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Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
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Wild Jordan staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other reserves are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
You could easily lose yourself — both literally and figuratively — in the endless red sand and towering rock skyscrapers of Wadi Rum. This majestic place, known to even the Greeks and the Romans, has been inhabited for thousands of years and is unlike any other place on Earth. The unique landscape has been featured in a handful of Hollywood movies, for example Lawrence of Arabia and The Martian.
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Take a local Bedouin guide, sleep in a tent, and experience the beautiful tranquility of Jordan's desert expanses.
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Take a local Bedouin guide, sleep in a tent, and experience the beautiful tranquility of Jordan’s desert expanses.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
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The ruins in Jerash are one of those legacies. Complete with arches, colonnades, hippodrome, baths, theaters, temples, and more, Jerash is the most well-preserved of Jordan's Greco–Roman sites.
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Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
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The ruins in Jerash are one of those legacies. Complete with arches, colonnades, hippodrome, baths, theaters, temples, and more, Jerash is the most well-preserved of Jordan’s Greco–Roman sites.
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diff --git a/public/2017/06/emperor-hadrians-arch-jerash/index.html b/public/2017/06/emperor-hadrians-arch-jerash/index.html
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- Emperor Hadrian's Arch in Jerash | Picturing Jordan
+ Emperor Hadrian’s Arch in Jerash | Picturing Jordan
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There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
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In any case, it's hard to miss this large stone arch near the beginning of the Greco–Roman archaeological site as you enter Jerash. I recommend visiting in the morning or late afternoon hours, as the midday sun can be intense.
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There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
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In any case, it’s hard to miss this large stone arch near the beginning of the Greco–Roman archaeological site as you enter Jerash. I recommend visiting in the morning or late afternoon hours, as the midday sun can be intense.
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
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There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
I saw this graffiti while walking around downtown Amman and thought the irony was too much to not share it. Loosely translated (this apparently comes from the words, actions, or habits of the prophet Muhammad), it says “cleanliness comes from faith” (al nadafa min al iman).
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
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These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
Human activity in the area dates back to the Bronze Age. Eventually the region came under Greek influence and the city was renamed “Pella” in honor of the birthplace of the famous conqueror Alexander the Great — its namesake being Pella, Macedonia, in what is now northern Greece. The site is currently located near the Arab town of Tabaqat Fahl.
The best way to visit Pella is a hike around the site and its scenic landscape in early Spring. You can find maps, GPS coördinates, and turn-by-turn navigation cues on the Hiking in Jordan website. Visit your auto mechanic, fix up your brakes, and then take the dramatic descent into the Jordan Valley to see this valuable piece of human history. Anyone staying in Jordan for more than a few days should absolutely add Pella to their list of “must see” attractions in the country.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
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On this particular summer day it was just before sunset when the light becomes less intense and takes on an orange hue. After admiring the church for some time from up close I walked on past it only to turn back a few moments later and catch a glimpse of this iconic building against the backdrop of a seemingly endless city. In retrospect, I must have been extra lucky to have been spared Amman's infamous dusty haze that day.
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Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
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On this particular summer day it was just before sunset when the light becomes less intense and takes on an orange hue. After admiring the church for some time from up close I walked on past it only to turn back a few moments later and catch a glimpse of this iconic building against the backdrop of a seemingly endless city. In retrospect, I must have been extra lucky to have been spared Amman’s infamous dusty haze that day.
In my experience Jabal Ashrafieh is safe and bustling with friendly people. On my walk back home that day many children stopped to slap high fives, ask my name, and one family even offered me some zucchini stuffed with minced meat and pine nuts. This was a good day.
Church service is open to the public at 9:30AM on Sundays.
Anyone who has drank tea in Petra or ate mansaf in Wadi Rum will quickly recognize the unique fabric adorning traditional Bedouin tents in Jordan. These colorful designs are commonly used across the Arabian Peninsula and beyond, from Syria and Iraq in the north to the United Arab Emirates and Oman in the southeast. American musician Cardi B even featured some in the 2017 music video for her song Bodak Yellow!
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Shops in downtown Amman sell the fabric for two Jordanian Dinar¹ per meter. This cheap and durable fabric makes a great souvenir or gift for friends and family back home — some things haven't changed since the times of the silk road! Unfortunately, one shopkeeper told me that this fabric used to be made exclusively in Aleppo, but production has moved to China since the start of the Syrian civil war in 2011.
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Shops in downtown Amman sell the fabric for two Jordanian Dinar¹ per meter. This cheap and durable fabric makes a great souvenir or gift for friends and family back home — some things haven’t changed since the times of the silk road! Unfortunately, one shopkeeper told me that this fabric used to be made exclusively in Aleppo, but production has moved to China since the start of the Syrian civil war in 2011.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
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One prominent example of Amman's Roman legacy is the ruins of the Temple of Hercules atop Jabal Al Qalʿa — the “hill of the castle” (or citadel), one of the city's original seven hills. Towering above the bustling center of downtown Amman, these few surviving pillars are a literal icon of the city. From here you can also see other notable Roman-era sights such as the Theater, Odeon, and Nymphaeum, as well as contemporary landmarks like the Abu Darwish and Husseini mosques.
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Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
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One prominent example of Amman’s Roman legacy is the ruins of the Temple of Hercules atop Jabal Al Qalʿa — the “hill of the castle” (or citadel), one of the city’s original seven hills. Towering above the bustling center of downtown Amman, these few surviving pillars are a literal icon of the city. From here you can also see other notable Roman-era sights such as the Theater, Odeon, and Nymphaeum, as well as contemporary landmarks like the Abu Darwish mosque.
Other attractions at the citadel include partial remains of the Umayyad Palace and a museum exhibiting artifacts from human activity in the area where you can see tools, pottery, coins, etc dating back to the Iron, Bronze, and Neolithic ages.
I recommend visiting the citadel one hour before sunset when the light becomes a warm, golden orange color. Entrance to the citadel is included in the Jordan Pass, so make sure to bring yours with you if you have one.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
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Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
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These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
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diff --git a/public/categories/architecture/index.xml b/public/categories/architecture/index.xml
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-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
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</figure>
-<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
+<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
+<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
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</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
+<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
@@ -88,7 +88,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -104,7 +104,7 @@
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-<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
+<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem’s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
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</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn't much to write home about</a>.</p>
+<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn’t much to write home about</a>.</p>
@@ -151,7 +151,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
@@ -182,7 +182,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn't</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
+<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn’t</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
@@ -198,7 +198,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
+<p>There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
diff --git a/public/categories/architecture/page/2/index.html b/public/categories/architecture/page/2/index.html
index 7071b5c0..3229d0e1 100644
--- a/public/categories/architecture/page/2/index.html
+++ b/public/categories/architecture/page/2/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -94,12 +94,12 @@
-
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
+
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/categories/design/index.xml b/public/categories/design/index.xml
index 527010ce..9a9f2156 100644
--- a/public/categories/design/index.xml
+++ b/public/categories/design/index.xml
@@ -40,7 +40,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
diff --git a/public/categories/food/index.html b/public/categories/food/index.html
index a24690eb..7e8563c6 100644
--- a/public/categories/food/index.html
+++ b/public/categories/food/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
+
I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/categories/food/index.xml b/public/categories/food/index.xml
index 8bc892d7..c0114df5 100644
--- a/public/categories/food/index.xml
+++ b/public/categories/food/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!</p>
+<p>I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!</p>
@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
+<p>You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
@@ -57,7 +57,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
+<p>There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
diff --git a/public/categories/index.html b/public/categories/index.html
index 74d7e0e0..f2bfb608 100644
--- a/public/categories/index.html
+++ b/public/categories/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -45,7 +45,7 @@
-
+
@@ -111,10 +111,10 @@
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/categories/islam/index.xml b/public/categories/islam/index.xml
index 5e7e7e15..018b717b 100644
--- a/public/categories/islam/index.xml
+++ b/public/categories/islam/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
+<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
diff --git a/public/categories/nature/index.html b/public/categories/nature/index.html
index 36cefebf..169f24e2 100644
--- a/public/categories/nature/index.html
+++ b/public/categories/nature/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
+
Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
diff --git a/public/categories/nature/index.xml b/public/categories/nature/index.xml
index 31952729..f88bd51d 100644
--- a/public/categories/nature/index.xml
+++ b/public/categories/nature/index.xml
@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan's</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan’s</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
@@ -73,7 +73,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
+<p>There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
@@ -89,7 +89,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.</p>
+<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.</p>
diff --git a/public/categories/nature/page/2/index.html b/public/categories/nature/page/2/index.html
index 03f539a1..3fae69b9 100644
--- a/public/categories/nature/page/2/index.html
+++ b/public/categories/nature/page/2/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
+
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
+
Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
+
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
+
I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
+
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/categories/travel/index.xml b/public/categories/travel/index.xml
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-<p>I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
+<p>I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
diff --git a/public/contact/index.html b/public/contact/index.html
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Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
Read more →
diff --git a/public/index.xml b/public/index.xml
index dc309ab1..6a4e6a97 100644
--- a/public/index.xml
+++ b/public/index.xml
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
+<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
@@ -72,7 +72,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
+<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
@@ -88,7 +88,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
+<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
@@ -104,7 +104,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
+<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
@@ -113,7 +113,7 @@
Sun, 16 Apr 2017 17:54:50 +0300https://picturingjordan.com/contact/
- I'd love to hear your comments, questions, and suggestions — send me a message using the form below.
+ I’d love to hear your comments, questions, and suggestions — send me a message using the form below.
@@ -129,7 +129,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -161,7 +161,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan's</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan’s</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
@@ -177,7 +177,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
+<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem’s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
@@ -209,7 +209,7 @@
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-<p>I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!</p>
+<p>I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!</p>
@@ -225,7 +225,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
+<p>You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
@@ -256,7 +256,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
@@ -272,7 +272,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn't much to write home about</a>.</p>
+<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn’t much to write home about</a>.</p>
@@ -288,7 +288,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
+<p>I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
@@ -303,7 +303,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
@@ -334,7 +334,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
+<p>There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
@@ -350,7 +350,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
+<p>There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
@@ -366,7 +366,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn't</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
+<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn’t</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
@@ -382,7 +382,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.</p>
+<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.</p>
@@ -398,7 +398,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
+<p>There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
@@ -414,7 +414,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
+<p>I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
@@ -455,7 +455,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
+<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
diff --git a/public/page/2/index.html b/public/page/2/index.html
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These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
+
Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
+
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
+
I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
+
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
Read more →
diff --git a/public/posts/index.xml b/public/posts/index.xml
index f62eacab..e039c44f 100644
--- a/public/posts/index.xml
+++ b/public/posts/index.xml
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
+<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
@@ -72,7 +72,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
+<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
@@ -88,7 +88,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
+<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
@@ -104,7 +104,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
+<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
@@ -120,7 +120,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -152,7 +152,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan's</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan’s</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
@@ -168,7 +168,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
+<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem’s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
@@ -200,7 +200,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!</p>
+<p>I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!</p>
@@ -216,7 +216,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
+<p>You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
@@ -247,7 +247,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
@@ -263,7 +263,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn't much to write home about</a>.</p>
+<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn’t much to write home about</a>.</p>
@@ -279,7 +279,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
+<p>I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
@@ -294,7 +294,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
@@ -325,7 +325,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
+<p>There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
@@ -341,7 +341,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
+<p>There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
@@ -357,7 +357,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn't</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
+<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn’t</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
@@ -373,7 +373,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.</p>
+<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.</p>
@@ -389,7 +389,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
+<p>There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
@@ -405,7 +405,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
+<p>I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
@@ -437,7 +437,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
+<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
diff --git a/public/posts/page/2/index.html b/public/posts/page/2/index.html
index 26af9b75..da90a8f3 100644
--- a/public/posts/page/2/index.html
+++ b/public/posts/page/2/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -45,7 +45,7 @@
-
+
@@ -111,10 +111,10 @@
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
+
Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
+
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
+
I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
+
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/amman/index.xml b/public/tags/amman/index.xml
index 77be5295..e7273c20 100644
--- a/public/tags/amman/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/amman/index.xml
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
+<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
@@ -72,7 +72,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
+<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
@@ -88,7 +88,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
+<p>You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
@@ -103,7 +103,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
@@ -118,7 +118,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
@@ -134,7 +134,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
+<p>There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
@@ -150,7 +150,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn't</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
+<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn’t</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
@@ -166,7 +166,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
+<p>I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
@@ -198,7 +198,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
+<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/amman/page/2/index.html b/public/tags/amman/page/2/index.html
index 2fef18b7..abd93acf 100644
--- a/public/tags/amman/page/2/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/amman/page/2/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/aqaba/index.xml b/public/tags/aqaba/index.xml
index 135a43e2..dd4194ca 100644
--- a/public/tags/aqaba/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/aqaba/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn't much to write home about</a>.</p>
+<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn’t much to write home about</a>.</p>
@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
+<p>I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/art/index.html b/public/tags/art/index.html
index bb03579f..f0587431 100644
--- a/public/tags/art/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/art/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/art/index.xml b/public/tags/art/index.xml
index a7543020..b494319a 100644
--- a/public/tags/art/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/art/index.xml
@@ -40,7 +40,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
+<p>There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/baklava/index.html b/public/tags/baklava/index.html
index 8d87357c..c95fc5b5 100644
--- a/public/tags/baklava/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/baklava/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/baklava/index.xml b/public/tags/baklava/index.xml
index 675bb2a3..e7b373bb 100644
--- a/public/tags/baklava/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/baklava/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
+<p>There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “<em>baklawa</em>” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/bedouin/index.html b/public/tags/bedouin/index.html
index 50c3c6c1..c29fe2d2 100644
--- a/public/tags/bedouin/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/bedouin/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
+
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/camping/index.xml b/public/tags/camping/index.xml
index ad1938d3..0b6d35a7 100644
--- a/public/tags/camping/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/camping/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.</p>
+<p>A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan</a> has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive <a href="http://www.rscn.org.jo/">government effort</a> to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/church/index.html b/public/tags/church/index.html
index 536521ec..2f4cab3d 100644
--- a/public/tags/church/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/church/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/church/index.xml b/public/tags/church/index.xml
index ad8c06e1..ea100c92 100644
--- a/public/tags/church/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/church/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
+<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn't</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
+<p>Even if the number of mosques in Amman <em>didn’t</em> outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “<em>Is that an Armenian church?</em>” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/community/index.html b/public/tags/community/index.html
index 254f2cac..b21d87f9 100644
--- a/public/tags/community/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/community/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/community/index.xml b/public/tags/community/index.xml
index acc0bf7e..c035a8c6 100644
--- a/public/tags/community/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/community/index.xml
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://jordanriver.jo">Jordan River Foundation</a> has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they <em>brilliantly</em> showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/dead-sea/index.html b/public/tags/dead-sea/index.html
index 59b160c0..fdc03b2d 100644
--- a/public/tags/dead-sea/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/dead-sea/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
+
Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/dead-sea/index.xml b/public/tags/dead-sea/index.xml
index 9d20d058..7c011e59 100644
--- a/public/tags/dead-sea/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/dead-sea/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan's</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than <a href="http://wildjordan.com/">Wild Jordan’s</a> chalets at Wadi Mujib.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/desert/index.html b/public/tags/desert/index.html
index 3cd7ba56..ffc53a12 100644
--- a/public/tags/desert/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/desert/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
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+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/driving/index.xml b/public/tags/driving/index.xml
index f116887f..c8235058 100644
--- a/public/tags/driving/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/driving/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
+<p>I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/eid/index.html b/public/tags/eid/index.html
index 545d62ba..5153ec28 100644
--- a/public/tags/eid/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/eid/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -97,7 +97,7 @@
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/graffiti/index.xml b/public/tags/graffiti/index.xml
index ea0949f8..91d17ac0 100644
--- a/public/tags/graffiti/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/graffiti/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
+<p>There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such <!-- raw HTML omitted -->finesse<!-- raw HTML omitted --> — as here in Jordan.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/greek/index.html b/public/tags/greek/index.html
index b1441a55..cfcc7e3b 100644
--- a/public/tags/greek/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/greek/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/greek/index.xml b/public/tags/greek/index.xml
index 3b6217e4..4d4fe1b8 100644
--- a/public/tags/greek/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/greek/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
+<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
+<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
@@ -57,7 +57,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/index.html b/public/tags/index.html
index db6c04cc..52a88e92 100644
--- a/public/tags/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -45,7 +45,7 @@
-
+
@@ -111,10 +111,10 @@
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I'm feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
+
Shortly after moving to Amman I noticed this unique building on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it is a religious site after all!
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/jerash/index.xml b/public/tags/jerash/index.xml
index 7d2d56c3..cf8adb91 100644
--- a/public/tags/jerash/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/jerash/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
+<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/jerusalem/index.html b/public/tags/jerusalem/index.html
index e5e83778..4c80b81b 100644
--- a/public/tags/jerusalem/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/jerusalem/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
+
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/jerusalem/index.xml b/public/tags/jerusalem/index.xml
index 9dfa1ceb..f979f05b 100644
--- a/public/tags/jerusalem/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/jerusalem/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
+<p>While not <em>technically</em> in Jordan, Jerusalem’s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a> is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foundation_Stone">impressive resume of sacred claims to fame</a>.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/kanafeh/index.html b/public/tags/kanafeh/index.html
index fefaa3a6..746160f6 100644
--- a/public/tags/kanafeh/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/kanafeh/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
+
I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/kanafeh/index.xml b/public/tags/kanafeh/index.xml
index 7fbb8ec2..d1775185 100644
--- a/public/tags/kanafeh/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/kanafeh/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!</p>
+<p>I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nablus">Nablus</a>, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanafeh">kanafeh</a> is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/mosque/index.html b/public/tags/mosque/index.html
index 53e7324a..72d963fe 100644
--- a/public/tags/mosque/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/mosque/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/mosque/index.xml b/public/tags/mosque/index.xml
index 1d980fd5..31641a53 100644
--- a/public/tags/mosque/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/mosque/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn't much to write home about</a>.</p>
+<p>The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/10/aqaba-dirty-disappointing/">isn’t much to write home about</a>.</p>
@@ -40,7 +40,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
+<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Hussein_Mosque">King Hussein mosque</a> was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the <em>Khalda</em> neighborhood of West Amman.</p>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
+<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/noise/index.html b/public/tags/noise/index.html
index d8604c13..15d4d71f 100644
--- a/public/tags/noise/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/noise/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -97,7 +97,7 @@
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/noise/index.xml b/public/tags/noise/index.xml
index b29ef35b..3294e55a 100644
--- a/public/tags/noise/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/noise/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
+<p>The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: <em>Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away</em>.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/oasis/index.html b/public/tags/oasis/index.html
index 1920ff52..d829841a 100644
--- a/public/tags/oasis/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/oasis/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/oasis/index.xml b/public/tags/oasis/index.xml
index f67e2d71..8c3c663b 100644
--- a/public/tags/oasis/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/oasis/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
+<p>There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/olives/index.html b/public/tags/olives/index.html
index c9d48bde..c6dde997 100644
--- a/public/tags/olives/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/olives/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn't know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
+
There is a popular notion that cleanliness is an important part of the Islamic faith, though you wouldn’t know it from walking around Jordan. I have never seen people throw coffee cups, half-eaten sandwiches, tissues, etc on the street so carelessly — and often times with such finesse — as here in Jordan.
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
Jordan's Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you're looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan's chalets at Wadi Mujib.
+
Jordan’s Dead Sea coast is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Amman. If you’re looking for something a little more wholesome and minimalistic — not to mention cheaper — than an elegant five-star resort, look no further than Wild Jordan’s chalets at Wadi Mujib.
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone's throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
+
While not technically in Jordan, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock is basically just a stone’s throw away from Amman (pun intended). Not only is this shrine capped with a golden dome, covered in vibrant Ottoman-era tilework, and adorned with elegant Arabic calligraphy, it also boasts an impressive resume of sacred claims to fame.
I'm ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can't make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it's even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you're doing!
+
I’m ashamed to say that it took me almost one month to discover this sweet, cheesy dessert after moving to Jordan. Originally from Nablus, a Palestinian city apparently known for “high cuisine,” kanafeh is one of those things that they just can’t make fast enough. At one famous shop called Habibah in downtown Amman there is always a line, and it’s even a bit stressful ordering there unless you know what you’re doing!
You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It's like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma's rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
+
The Jordan River Foundation has a showroom on Rainbow Street where they brilliantly showcase traditional, everyday objects from the region in a fresh, modern way. It’s like someone went and replaced all the things in your grandma’s rural kitchen with newer, brightly accented ones. All of the wood, cloth, and clay work here is produced by people in local communities, and, as far as I know, the proceeds from sales go back to supporting them.
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn't much to write home about.
+
The best way to describe the Sheikh Zayed mosque would be “the pearl of Aqaba.” There is a lot to love about this picturesque mosque by the Jordanian seaside, but its crown jewel — to continue the analogy — is the impeccable Arabic calligraphy inlaid in its facade. Sadly, Aqaba itself isn’t much to write home about.
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven't visited it yet, but I've spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
+
The King Hussein mosque was built in 2005 and is the largest mosque in Jordan. I haven’t visited it yet, but I’ve spent quite a few evenings admiring it from a balcony in the Khalda neighborhood of West Amman.
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
There's a shop in Amman's main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I'm not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
+
There’s a shop in Amman’s main market downtown that sells traditional Arabic sweets. I’m not sure who was more excited about this half-kilogram of baklava (which is called “baklawa” in Arabic) — me, or the jovial young Jordanian selling it.
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn't outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
+
Even if the number of mosques in Amman didn’t outnumber churches by a factor of ten, the Saint Thaddeus Armenian Apostolic church would still stand out. The unique architecture caught my eye once and then I started seeing it every time I glanced at Jabal Al-Ashrafiyeh. After weeks of squinting and asking myself “Is that an Armenian church?” I finally went on an scavenger hunt and found it.
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan's Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan's natural spaces.
+
A few weeks ago I slept in a tent on the cusp of Jordan’s Rift Valley. Wild Jordan has regular hiking and camping trips to the reserve and they are very affordable. The staff are friendly and genuinely care about nature conservation. Trips to this and other national parks are part of an impressive government effort to preserve Jordan’s natural spaces.
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn't worried about my personal safety I'd put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
+
The irony is rich with this one, because this mosque has a sound system from another planet. If I wasn’t worried about my personal safety I’d put up a sign right next to it saying: Please mute your mosque, there is a sleeping Alan 50m away.
There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
+
There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/painting/index.xml b/public/tags/painting/index.xml
index f936b3e5..1232ff81 100644
--- a/public/tags/painting/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/painting/index.xml
@@ -40,7 +40,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>There's an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I'm not sure if it's typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
+<p>There’s an old Syrian man who does this fantastic hand painting on wood panels in Amman. Three flats in our building have them installed on the ceiling, but this one takes the cake. I’m not sure if it’s typical for the region or not — the man was referencing pictures from a Russian art book — but they are exquisite.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/pella/index.html b/public/tags/pella/index.html
index 0087c136..e50e1d4d 100644
--- a/public/tags/pella/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/pella/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/pella/index.xml b/public/tags/pella/index.xml
index e6621908..a44f94af 100644
--- a/public/tags/pella/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/pella/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
+<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/petra/index.html b/public/tags/petra/index.html
index ee31dbac..ed17e34c 100644
--- a/public/tags/petra/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/petra/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
+
I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in The Martian, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/red-sea/index.xml b/public/tags/red-sea/index.xml
index 1e3b9d4b..2aa137db 100644
--- a/public/tags/red-sea/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/red-sea/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>I'm struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan's southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
+<p>I’m struggling to find words to describe my trip to Jordan’s southern city by the sea. Initially, the contrast between dry desert, rocky mountains, and the turquoise water of the Red Sea is visually striking — imagine Matt Damon in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Martian_(film)"><em>The Martian</em></a>, but where he goes snorkeling on a coral reef instead of growing potatoes.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/roman/index.html b/public/tags/roman/index.html
index 8b48dbc1..33847bda 100644
--- a/public/tags/roman/index.html
+++ b/public/tags/roman/index.html
@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
-
+
@@ -31,7 +31,7 @@
-
+
@@ -96,10 +96,10 @@
Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
+
These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at Jerash. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
+
There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in Athens and one in Jerash. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/roman/index.xml b/public/tags/roman/index.xml
index ff23689a..b6316304 100644
--- a/public/tags/roman/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/roman/index.xml
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed it to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. In the last three thousand years alone the region has invariably fallen under the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
@@ -40,7 +40,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>These days there isn't much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
+<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@
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-<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it's the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
+<p>There are apparently two arches built around 130 CE to honor Roman Emperor Hadrian—one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Athens)">Athens</a> and one in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_of_Hadrian_(Jerash)">Jerash</a>. The former is undoubtedly more studied, but the latter is objectively more beautiful! Maybe it’s the color of the stones in the afternoon light, the unconventional architectural features, or just the sheer size of it.</p>
@@ -72,7 +72,7 @@
</figcaption>
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-<p>Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
+<p>Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/roman/page/2/index.html b/public/tags/roman/page/2/index.html
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Jordan's location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
+
Jordan’s location in the geographical “near east” has exposed the country to dozens of civilizations over the course of history. Over the last three thousand years alone this region has experienced the coming and going of the Persian, Greek, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman — to name a few — empires, the legacies of which are often still visible today.
There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
+
There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/wetland/index.xml b/public/tags/wetland/index.xml
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-<p>There's a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
+<p>There’s a unique wetland nature preserve an hour and a half from Amman. In just thirty minutes of walking around, I saw birds, snakes, crabs, fish, and even water buffaloes! For thousands of years Azraq was a massive, thriving oasis whose ecological diversity supported human settlements, but in recent decades it has come dangerously close to drying up due to increased water usage from surrounding cities.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/whatsapp/index.html b/public/tags/whatsapp/index.html
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I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
+
I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to put their fucking phones down while driving. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/whatsapp/index.xml b/public/tags/whatsapp/index.xml
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</figcaption>
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-<p>I can't even read Arabic but I'm pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It's like an epidemic here. I've never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
+<p>I can’t even read Arabic but I’m pretty sure that billboard is telling people to <em>put their fucking phones down while driving</em>. It’s like an epidemic here. I’ve never seen people look less at the road while driving than here in Amman.</p>
diff --git a/public/tags/yemen/index.html b/public/tags/yemen/index.html
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You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
+
You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the Bab al-Yemen restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.
Read more →
diff --git a/public/tags/yemen/index.xml b/public/tags/yemen/index.xml
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--- a/public/tags/yemen/index.xml
+++ b/public/tags/yemen/index.xml
@@ -25,7 +25,7 @@
</figcaption>
</figure>
-<p>You haven't lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
+<p>You haven’t lived until you and your friends have eaten seventeen different colors of rice, meat, and sauces while sitting on the floor at the <em>Bab al-Yemen</em> restaurant in Amman. If my experience is anything to go by, every item on the menu is downright delicious — including the humongous, flame-kissed flatbread that would be almost as fascinating to see being made as it was to eat.</p>
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