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<p>These days there isn’t much to see of the Greco–Roman city of Pella in northwestern Jordan. Sadly, the ancient ruins here suffer from being slightly smaller, slightly less well-preserved, and slightly less convenient to visit than the similar ruins at <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2017/04/greco-roman-ruins-jerash/">Jerash</a>. With a bit of imagination and some historical background, however, they are equally enchanting and even have a unique character of their own.</p>
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<p>Human activity in the area dates back to the Bronze Age. Eventually the region came under Greek influence and the city was renamed “Pella” in honor of the birthplace of the famous conqueror Alexander the Great — its namesake being <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pella">Pella, Macedonia</a>, in what is now northern Greece. The site is currently located near the Arab town of Tabaqat Fahl.</p>
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<p>The best way to visit Pella is a hike around the site and its scenic landscape in early Spring. You can find maps, GPS coördinates, and turn-by-turn navigation cues on the <a href="https://hiking-in-jordan.com/index.php/hiking-trails/10-hiking-trails-in-jordan/northern-jordan/9-pella-mountain-trail-hiking-in-jordan">Hiking in Jordan website</a>. Visit your auto mechanic, fix up your brakes, and then take the dramatic descent into the Jordan Valley to see this valuable piece of human history. Anyone staying in Jordan for more than a few days should absolutely add Pella to their list of “must see” attractions in the country.</p>
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<p>Shortly after moving to Amman <a href="https://picturingjordan.com/2016/09/saint-thaddeus-church-amman/">I noticed this unique building</a> on a distant hill and I set out on a sort of scavenger hunt to find it. The walk from downtown to Jabal Ashrafieh is packed with winding streets and steep staircases (some of which go nowhere). To this day the church is one of my favorite landmarks in Amman and I often make the trek there when I’m feeling like getting some exercise and exploring the city. I like to think of it as a pilgrimage — it <em>is</em> a religious site after all!</p>
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<p>On this particular summer day it was just before sunset when the light becomes less intense and takes on an orange hue. After admiring the church for some time from up close I walked on past it only to turn back a few moments later and catch a glimpse of this iconic building against the backdrop of a seemingly endless city. In retrospect, I must have been extra lucky to have been spared Amman’s infamous dusty haze that day.</p>
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<p>In my experience Jabal Ashrafieh is safe and bustling with friendly people. On my walk back home that day many children stopped to slap high fives, ask my name, and one family even offered me some zucchini stuffed with minced meat and pine nuts. This was a good day.</p>
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<p>Anyone who has drank tea in Petra or ate <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mansaf">mansaf</a> in Wadi Rum will quickly recognize the unique fabric adorning traditional Bedouin tents in Jordan. These colorful designs are commonly used across the Arabian Peninsula and beyond, from Syria and Iraq in the north to the United Arab Emirates and Oman in the southeast. American musician Cardi B even featured some in the 2017 music video for her song <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEGccV-NOm8">Bodak Yellow</a>!</p>
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<p>Shops in downtown Amman sell the fabric for two Jordanian Dinar<a href="#footnote1">¹</a> per meter. This cheap and durable fabric makes a great souvenir or gift for friends and family back home — some things haven’t changed since the times of the <em>silk road</em>! Unfortunately, one shopkeeper told me that this fabric used to be made exclusively in Aleppo, but production has moved to China since the start of the Syrian civil war in 2011.</p>
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<p><small id="footnote1">¹ Approximately 2.8 USD.</small></p>
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