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<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/">Vratsa Is a Picturesque Thracian City</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-05-16T07:56:02Z">Mon May 16, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/stara-planina/" rel="tag">Stara Planina</a>, <a href="/tags/thrace/" rel="tag">Thrace</a>, <a href="/tags/vratsa/" rel="tag">Vratsa</a>
</p>
<p>The picturesque little city of Vratsa (Враца) sits at the foothills of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balkan_Mountains">Balkan Mountains</a> in Northwest Bulgaria. On a recent road trip I was amazed when I saw the city sitting under the craggy cliffs of the &ldquo;old mountain&rdquo; (<em>Стара Планина</em> / Stara Planina in Bulgarian). What with the water and all it&rsquo;s kind of like a poor man&rsquo;s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Town">Cape Town</a>!</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_480x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 480w,
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_800x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 800w,
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_1200x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 1200w,
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_1500x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 1500w,
'
src="/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_800x0_resize_q75_box.JPG"
alt="The city of Vratsa below the Balkan mountain"/> <figcaption>
<p>The city of Vratsa below the Balkan mountain</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<article class="blog-post">
<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/05/tanks-rolling-streets-sofia/">Tanks Rolling Down the Streets of Sofia</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-05-05T14:10:12Z">Thu May 05, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/armed-forces-day/" rel="tag">Armed Forces Day</a>, <a href="/tags/saint-george/" rel="tag">Saint George</a>, <a href="/tags/sofia/" rel="tag">Sofia</a>, <a href="/tags/tanks/" rel="tag">Tanks</a>
</p>
<p>Last night my trolley ride home from downtown Sofia was interrupted by a police roadblock and some rather unusual traffic on Aleksandar Dondukov Boulevard.</p>
<video controls preload="auto" width="100%" class="html-video">
<source src="/2016/05/tanks-rolling-streets-sofia/tanks-in-sofia.webm" type="video/webm" }}>
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</video>
<a href='/2016/05/tanks-rolling-streets-sofia/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/">Sofia&rsquo;s Marvelous Alexander Nevsky Cathedral</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-04-20T14:21:40Z">Wed Apr 20, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/cathedral/" rel="tag">Cathedral</a>, <a href="/tags/sofia/" rel="tag">Sofia</a>
</p>
<p>When I first started visiting Bulgaria I was in awe of the beautiful buildings in Sofia. Here you can see the typical vintage of Europe mixed with a bit of the color and flair of the Orient, a combination rarely seen in Western Europe. For the first few months after I moved to Sofia I maintained the position that it was <em>cliché</em> to say that the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Nevsky_Cathedral,_Sofia">Alexander Nevsky cathedral</a> was your favorite building in the city — after all, it is undoubtedly the most famous landmark. But, ladies and gentlemen, this cathedral is absolutely marvelous to behold.</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/DSC_0004_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_2993374_480x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 480w,
/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/DSC_0004_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_2993374_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 800w,
/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/DSC_0004_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_2993374_1200x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1200w,
/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/DSC_0004_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_2993374_1500x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1500w,
'
src="/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/DSC_0004_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_2993374_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="Sofia&amp;rsquo;s Alexander Nevsky cathedral on a sunny afternoon"/> <figcaption>
<p>Sofia&rsquo;s Alexander Nevsky cathedral on a sunny afternoon</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/04/sofias-marvelous-alexander-nevsky-cathedral/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/03/vakali-rocks-packed-ndk-auditorium/">Vakali Rocks a Packed NDK Auditorium</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-03-24T12:28:53Z">Thu Mar 24, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/ndk/" rel="tag">NDK</a>, <a href="/tags/sofia/" rel="tag">Sofia</a>, <a href="/tags/vakali/" rel="tag">Vakali</a>
</p>
<p>How do you write a review of a performance dance group that wears Viking costumes, uses bones to play their drums, and has pyrotechnics so badass that I could feel them twenty rows back in the audience? I was clapping so hard during <a href="https://www.facebook.com/VAKALI.group/" title="Vikali group on Facebook">Vakali&rsquo;s</a> performance at the <a href="http://www.ndk.bg/">National Palace of Culture (NDK)</a> in Sofia last week that my hands <em>still hurt</em>?</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
'
src="/2016/03/vakali-rocks-packed-ndk-auditorium/group-vakali_hue2c2dc81e7b4885328f20c9eda1bdd08_152070_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="Vakali group (from their Facebook page)"/> <figcaption>
<p>Vakali group (from their Facebook page)</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/03/vakali-rocks-packed-ndk-auditorium/'>Continue reading...</a>
</article>
<article class="blog-post">
<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/">Village of Gela, Birthplace of Orpheus</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-03-07T08:56:17Z">Mon Mar 07, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/mountains/" rel="tag">Mountains</a>, <a href="/tags/orpheus/" rel="tag">Orpheus</a>, <a href="/tags/thrace/" rel="tag">Thrace</a>
</p>
<p>As you drive into the village of Gela in southern Bulgaria a sign informs you that this is the birthplace of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orpheus">Orpheus</a>, the legendary Thracian musician and poet. I&rsquo;m not sure if it&rsquo;s true, but who <em>wouldn&rsquo;t</em> be able to &ldquo;charm all living things and even stones&rdquo; with their music if they were born in a village with such a view? These are the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhodope_Mountains">Rhodope Mountains</a> in the golden afternoon sunlight of early spring.</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/IMG_20160305_163845_hud2e9e272cc843a8fcd18791bb259851a_2355886_480x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 480w,
/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/IMG_20160305_163845_hud2e9e272cc843a8fcd18791bb259851a_2355886_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 800w,
/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/IMG_20160305_163845_hud2e9e272cc843a8fcd18791bb259851a_2355886_1200x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1200w,
/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/IMG_20160305_163845_hud2e9e272cc843a8fcd18791bb259851a_2355886_1500x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1500w,
'
src="/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/IMG_20160305_163845_hud2e9e272cc843a8fcd18791bb259851a_2355886_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="View of the Rhodope Mountains from Gela, Bulgaria"/> <figcaption>
<p>View of the Rhodope Mountains from Gela, Bulgaria</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/03/village-gela-birthplace-orpheus/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<article class="blog-post">
<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/02/beautiful-ligatures-in-serbian-cyrillic/">Beautiful Ligatures in Serbian Cyrillic</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-02-24T11:37:16Z">Wed Feb 24, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/language/" rel="category tag">Language</a>, <a href="/categories/travel/" rel="category tag">Travel</a>
<a href="/tags/cyrillic/" rel="tag">Cyrillic</a>, <a href="/tags/serbia/" rel="tag">Serbia</a>
</p>
<p>Ligatures for &ldquo;ль&rdquo; and &ldquo;нь&rdquo; are unique to the Cyrillic alphabets of several Slavic languages in Southeastern Europe. We don&rsquo;t have them in Bulgarian, so I can remember being confused the first time I saw them in Serbia. My confusion turned into fascination once I realized that their construction fused two characters that I knew how to use into one that we simply don&rsquo;t have. You can see љ (<em><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lje">Lje</a></em>) on this road sign for Жељуша in Serbia (with the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaj%27s_Latin_alphabet">Serbo-Croatian Latin</a> representation below it):</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
'
src="/2016/02/beautiful-ligatures-in-serbian-cyrillic/2016-02-10_hu548ce2ededffa3eb0b61879a11636bba_229110_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="Road sign for Жељуша town in Serbia showing the Cyrillic ligature for &amp;ldquo;ль&amp;rdquo;"/> <figcaption>
<p>Road sign for Жељуша town in Serbia showing the Cyrillic ligature for &ldquo;ль&rdquo;</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/02/beautiful-ligatures-in-serbian-cyrillic/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<li><a href="/2016/11/if-you-give-a-bulgarian-man-some-grapes/">If You Give a Bulgarian Man Some Grapes&hellip;</a></li>
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<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/02/beautiful-ligatures-in-macedonian-cyrillic/">Beautiful Ligatures in Macedonian Cyrillic</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-02-08T09:14:15Z">Mon Feb 08, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/language/" rel="category tag">Language</a>, <a href="/categories/travel/" rel="category tag">Travel</a>
<a href="/tags/bulgarian/" rel="tag">Bulgarian</a>, <a href="/tags/cyrillic/" rel="tag">Cyrillic</a>, <a href="/tags/macedonia/" rel="tag">Macedonia</a>
</p>
<p>Macedonian is a Slavic language closely related to Bulgarian. My untrained ear can&rsquo;t tell the difference between the two, but my eyes spot differences immediately. In addition to minor variations in spelling and grammar, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macedonian_alphabet">Macedonian&rsquo;s Cyrillic alphabet</a> uses a handful of characters not present in Bulgarian&rsquo;s, for example the beautiful ligatures for &ldquo;ль&rdquo; and &ldquo;нь&rdquo;: љ and њ, respectively.</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
'
src="/2016/02/beautiful-ligatures-in-macedonian-cyrillic/macedonian-ligatures_hu0e4397e87b34a5a00372b36345cb0b06_9925_800x0_resize_box_2.png"
alt="Ligatures for upper and lowercase &amp;ldquo;Lje&amp;rdquo; and &amp;ldquo;Nje&amp;rdquo; characters (rendered in PT Sans)"/> <figcaption>
<p>Ligatures for upper and lowercase &ldquo;Lje&rdquo; and &ldquo;Nje&rdquo; characters (rendered in PT Sans)</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/02/beautiful-ligatures-in-macedonian-cyrillic/'>Continue reading...</a>
</article>
<article class="blog-post">
<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/">The &ldquo;Sofia Communist Tour&rdquo; Is Great</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-01-27T13:43:20Z">Wed Jan 27, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/communism/" rel="tag">Communism</a>, <a href="/tags/sofia/" rel="tag">Sofia</a>
</p>
<p>What better vessel could there be than an iconic, former-East-German <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trabant">Trabant</a> for navigating a narrative of Bulgaria&rsquo;s communist era? A few clever young Bulgarians have bought a little blue &ldquo;Trabi&rdquo; and are giving free tours of Sofia with the aim of doing just that.</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/DSC_0013_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_1623225_480x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 480w,
/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/DSC_0013_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_1623225_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 800w,
/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/DSC_0013_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_1623225_1200x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1200w,
/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/DSC_0013_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_1623225_1500x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1500w,
'
src="/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/DSC_0013_hu0b8db3f8b42fc9816735d5e6d1759f12_1623225_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="The East German Trabant is an iconic reminder of Communism in Eastern Europe"/> <figcaption>
<p>The East German Trabant is an iconic reminder of Communism in Eastern Europe</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/01/sofia-communist-tour-great/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<h2 class="blog-post-title" dir="auto"><a href="/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/">Rambling Man With a Torch in Sofia</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-01-04T12:44:05Z">Mon Jan 04, 2016</time> by Alan Orth in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/sofia/" rel="tag">Sofia</a>
</p>
<p>&ldquo;<em>STOP!</em>&rdquo; he shouts, right as I&rsquo;m about to take my money from the ATM in downtown Sofia. Alarmed, I turn around to find some bearded man standing right behind me, holding what — at first glance — looks like a gun. &ldquo;<em>Holy shit,</em>&rdquo; I think, &ldquo;<em>am I about to get jacked?</em>&rdquo;</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/Butane_torch_hu8d1818e9b64ce30e95e31bde0ff5dd03_672344_480x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 480w,
/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/Butane_torch_hu8d1818e9b64ce30e95e31bde0ff5dd03_672344_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 800w,
/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/Butane_torch_hu8d1818e9b64ce30e95e31bde0ff5dd03_672344_1200x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1200w,
/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/Butane_torch_hu8d1818e9b64ce30e95e31bde0ff5dd03_672344_1500x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1500w,
'
src="/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/Butane_torch_hu8d1818e9b64ce30e95e31bde0ff5dd03_672344_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="Butane torch (by Hustvedt, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)"/> <figcaption>
<p>Butane torch (by Hustvedt, <a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0">CC BY-SA 3.0</a>, via <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AButane_torch.jpg">Wikimedia Commons</a>)</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<a href='/2016/01/rambling-man-with-torch-sofia/'>Continue reading...</a>
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<li><a href="/2018/02/the-radiant-and-peaceful-shipka-memorial-church/">The Radiant and Peaceful Shipka Memorial Church</a></li>
<li><a href="/2016/11/if-you-give-a-bulgarian-man-some-grapes/">If You Give a Bulgarian Man Some Grapes&hellip;</a></li>
<li><a href="/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/">Katarzyna Estate and the Legend of Thracian Wine</a></li>
<li><a href="/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/">Vratsa Is a Picturesque Thracian City</a></li>
<li><a href="/2016/05/tanks-rolling-streets-sofia/">Tanks Rolling Down the Streets of Sofia</a></li>
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<h4 class="fst-italic">Elsewhere</h4>
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<li><a href="https://alaninkenya.org">Alan in Kenya</a></li>
<li><a href="https://mjanja.ch">Mjanja Tech</a></li>
<li><a href="https://picturingjordan.com">Picturing Jordan</a></li>
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