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<h2 class="blog-post-title"><a href="/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/">Katarzyna Estate and the Legend of Thracian Wine</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-05-22T17:29:25Z">Sun May 22, 2016</time>
in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/homer/" rel="tag">Homer</a>, <a href="/tags/katarzyna-estate/" rel="tag">Katarzyna Estate</a>, <a href="/tags/svilengrad/" rel="tag">Svilengrad</a>, <a href="/tags/thrace/" rel="tag">Thrace</a>, <a href="/tags/wine/" rel="tag">Wine</a>
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<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_100129_hubfa4272ec88c420741f95b956fb834ca_2053475_480x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 480w,
/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_100129_hubfa4272ec88c420741f95b956fb834ca_2053475_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 800w,
/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_100129_hubfa4272ec88c420741f95b956fb834ca_2053475_1200x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1200w,
/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_100129_hubfa4272ec88c420741f95b956fb834ca_2053475_1500x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1500w,
'
src="/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_100129_hubfa4272ec88c420741f95b956fb834ca_2053475_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
/>
</figure>
<p>Much of modern-day Bulgaria and Northern Greece was inhabited by loosely organized <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrace">Thracian</a> tribes during the first millennium or so before Christ. Legend has it that they have made wine along the banks of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maritsa">Maritsa river</a> for the last 5,000 years. The ancient Greek poet Homer partially corroborates this in his epics written around 800 BCE. From <cite>The Iliad</cite>:</p>
<figure>
<blockquote cite="http://classics.mit.edu/Homer/iliad.9.ix.html" class="blockquote">
<p>Prepare a feast for your councillors; it is right and reasonable that you should do so; there is abundance of wine in your tents, which the ships of the Achaeans bring from Thrace daily.</p>
</blockquote>
<figcaption class="blockquote-footer">
<cite>Homer, <a href="http://classics.mit.edu/Homer/iliad.9.ix.html">The Iliad (Book IX)</a></cite>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In <cite>The Odyssey</cite> Homer even describes the hero Odysseus using &ldquo;sweet black wine&rdquo; from the Thracian city of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maroneia">Maroneia</a> to escape being torn limb from limb and eaten by the one-eyed Cyclops named Polyphemus. Now, at least 3,000 years later, the <a href="http://katarzyna.bg">Katarzyna Estate</a> winery continues the Thracian tradition by making its wine just a stone&rsquo;s throw from the Maritsa river in Svilengrad, Southeast Bulgaria.</p>
<h2 id="touring-the-katarzyna-estate">Touring the Katarzyna Estate</h2>
<p>I recently visited Katarzyna for a tour and was very impressed by the facilities and the neatly manicured estate grounds. The vineyards sit in the temperate plains near the Rhodope Mountains and, if the weather is right, the view is fantastic.</p>
<p>[gallery link=&ldquo;file&rdquo; columns=&ldquo;2&rdquo; size=&ldquo;medium&rdquo; ids=&ldquo;2162,2168&rdquo;]</p>
<p>The tour guide was friendly and talked with us about the winery&rsquo;s fermentation vats, oak barrels, bottling capacity, etc — I submit this without comment because it was mostly all over my head. ;)</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
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/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_095048_hucb1267719a1cc3509ad6aba97949d5c8_1750451_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 800w,
/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_095048_hucb1267719a1cc3509ad6aba97949d5c8_1750451_1200x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1200w,
/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_095048_hucb1267719a1cc3509ad6aba97949d5c8_1750451_1500x0_resize_q75_box.jpg 1500w,
'
src="/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/IMG_20160518_095048_hucb1267719a1cc3509ad6aba97949d5c8_1750451_800x0_resize_q75_box.jpg"
alt="Fermentation vats at Katarzyna Estate"/> <figcaption>
<p>Fermentation vats at Katarzyna Estate</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>One <em>unusual</em> bit of information from the tour is that the land on which the winery was founded in 2003 was supposedly part of a post-World War II buffer zone between Bulgaria and Greece. As the land apparently hadn&rsquo;t been used for agriculture in over fifty years, it should theoretically be more nutrient rich. I won&rsquo;t pretend to understand the dynamics of the Axis and Allied powers in this region during World War II, but this certainly makes a good story for why the wine is so good!</p>
<h2 id="drinking-odysseus-wine">Drinking Odysseus' Wine</h2>
<p>The tour guide said that 75% of the wine produced at Katarzyna is destined for the local market — hey, it was good enough for Homer and Odysseus, and Bulgarians know what they like. If you&rsquo;re looking for Katarzyna wines in your local shop and you can afford it, I suggest you avoid the &ldquo;Mezzek&rdquo; line, as it is apparently their entry-level product. For what it&rsquo;s worth, after my tour I picked up a few bottles of their &ldquo;Contemplations&rdquo; rosé, &ldquo;Smaraida&rdquo; white, and &ldquo;Encore&rdquo; red. Now, just in case someone from the winery is reading this, I think it would be cool if Katarzyna started a line of dark, sweet red wine and called it &ldquo;Odyssey&rdquo;. Know your heritage!</p>
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<h2 class="blog-post-title"><a href="/2016/05/tanks-rolling-streets-sofia/">Tanks Rolling Down the Streets of Sofia</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-05-05T14:10:12Z">Thu May 05, 2016</time>
in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/armed-forces-day/" rel="tag">Armed Forces Day</a>, <a href="/tags/saint-george/" rel="tag">Saint George</a>, <a href="/tags/sofia/" rel="tag">Sofia</a>, <a href="/tags/tanks/" rel="tag">Tanks</a>
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<p>Last night my trolley ride home from downtown Sofia was interrupted by a police roadblock and some rather unusual traffic on Aleksandar Dondukov Boulevard.</p>
<video controls preload="auto" width="100%" class="html-video">
<source src="/2016/05/tanks-rolling-streets-sofia/tanks-in-sofia.webm" type="video/webm" }}>
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<p>Welcome to Bulgaria, where military tanks roll down the streets of the country&rsquo;s capital in preparation for the annual <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armed_Forces_Day">Armed Forces Day</a> parade. I&rsquo;ve seen a dozen or so airshows, but this takes the cake! Nevertheless, this was pretty surreal to see.</p>
<h2 id="bulgarian-holy-war">Bulgarian Holy War</h2>
<p>Bulgaria&rsquo;s Armed Forces Day coincides with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_George%27s_Day">Saint George&rsquo;s Day</a> — you know, the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_George_and_the_Dragon">guy who is depicted as killing a dragon</a> in folklore and monuments all over Europe — on May 6th, as Saint George <em>is the patron saint of the Bulgarian Armed Forces</em>. This gives a whole new meaning to the phrase &ldquo;Holy War.&rdquo;</p>
<p><strong>Update (May 6, 2016):</strong> Discussions with at least three Bulgarians about the strangeness of having a patron saint for the army have been extremely unproductive so far.</p>
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<li><a href="/2016/11/if-you-give-a-bulgarian-man-some-grapes/">If You Give a Bulgarian Man Some Grapes&hellip;</a></li>
<li><a href="/2016/05/katarzyna-estate-and-the-legend-of-thracian-wine/">Katarzyna Estate and the Legend of Thracian Wine</a></li>
<li><a href="/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/">Vratsa Is a Picturesque Thracian City</a></li>
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<h2 class="blog-post-title"><a href="/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/">Vratsa Is a Picturesque Thracian City</a></h2>
<p class="blog-post-meta"><time datetime="2016-05-16T07:56:02Z">Mon May 16, 2016</time>
in
<a href="/categories/bulgaria/" rel="category tag">Bulgaria</a>
<a href="/tags/stara-planina/" rel="tag">Stara Planina</a>, <a href="/tags/thrace/" rel="tag">Thrace</a>, <a href="/tags/vratsa/" rel="tag">Vratsa</a>
</p>
<p>The picturesque little city of Vratsa (Враца) sits at the foothills of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balkan_Mountains">Balkan Mountains</a> in Northwest Bulgaria. On a recent road trip I was amazed when I saw the city sitting under the craggy cliffs of the &ldquo;old mountain&rdquo; (<em>Стара Планина</em> / Stara Planina in Bulgarian). What with the water and all it&rsquo;s kind of like a poor man&rsquo;s <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Town">Cape Town</a>!</p>
<figure>
<img
sizes="(min-width: 35em) 1200px, 100vw"
srcset='
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_480x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 480w,
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_800x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 800w,
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_1200x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 1200w,
/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_1500x0_resize_q75_box.JPG 1500w,
'
src="/2016/05/vratsa-is-a-picturesque-thracian-city/DSC_0002_hu6247ac82c844b4dbac538bf97308849e_2367296_800x0_resize_q75_box.JPG"
alt="The city of Vratsa below the Balkan mountain"/> <figcaption>
<p>The city of Vratsa below the Balkan mountain</p>
</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>I&rsquo;ve never actually <em>been</em> to Vratsa, but after reading Wikipedia for a few hours I am fascinated by the history of the region.</p>
<p>The area would have been inhabited by loosely organized Thracian tribes during the first millennium before Christ. From around 550 [BCE] Thrace was subjugated by the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Achaemenid_Empire">Persian Empire</a> until Persia&rsquo;s defeat in the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greco-Persian_Wars">Greco–Persian Wars</a> in 449 BCE. After that, there was likely a more organized <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odrysian_kingdom">Thracian kingdom</a> for a few centuries until Rome finally turned Thrace into a province in the first century CE. Over the next millennium the Byzantines, Bulgarians, and Ottomans would all take turns dominating this region of the Balkan peninsula.</p>
<p>I&rsquo;m excited to put more of the puzzle pieces together as I explore the country.</p>
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